HALFWAY OR THEREABOUTS – SARRIA TO PORTOMARIN,22.7 KM.

https://youtu.be/VwhZmQHHQ34?si=Rz_ Halfway to Paradise by the late Billy Fury – Couldn’t resist it! 🤣 Great song though.

It will be interesting to compare our thoughts about Sarria as we exit along the Rua Mayor,passing the Convento de la Magdalena, where the camino turns left and we descend the hill before crossing the Rio Celeiro over the Ponte Aspera, following the river,we then cross train tracks and begin the first climb of the day.

Ponte da Aspera

Ponte da Áspera collects two periods between its stones. It conserves three semicircular arches of Romanesque invoice, built in granite. The rest of the bridge is later, since it was very deteriorated, and dates from the 18th century, in the middle of the Modern Age. This late addition is built in slate.

This bridge that leads to Barbadelo, the next stop on this stage of the Camino de Santiago, is one of the seven emblematic points of the Camino chosen for a rehabilitation project. The vegetation is cleared periodically so as not to leave the image of an abandoned Sarria in the imagination of the pilgrims. A ponte da Áspera hides a lot of history to let it go unnoticed among the brambles and ferns.

Passing through an “ enchanted “ Oak forest and 3.7 km along we reach Barbadelo with its Romanesque church of Santiago de Barbadelo.

An informative link :-https://www.caminodesantiago.gal/en/recurso/4502/igrexa-parroquial-de-santiago-de-barbadelo

Barbadelo is mentioned in the Codex Calixtinus in which the author denounces the commercialisation of the pilgrimage road. (I refer you to the previous Blog). Apparently, today it is no different: from here on out, we may begin to see more panhandlers and scam artists. Not a danger, but best advised to keep walking calmly and don’t get engaged in any conversations. Casa Barbadelo offers refreshments,plus a small shop . Leaving Barbadelo, small farmsteads,sinuous roads and 6 km further along we come to Panaderia Peruscallo – sello available

Local delights include Pimientos de Padron

Unmissable – legend says every tenth one is hot – well I’ve never had a hot one in twenty years!

Next village is Morgade with another tempting cafe. We will encounter some large medieval pavements,stones of the millennia – old path . Also, dozens of Horreos, most filled with dried corn for the farm animals.

A romantic image.

Leaving Morgade, we continue through forests and pastures but also through vineyards that are part of Lugos province’s Ribeira Sacra wine region .

“ Bottle of Wine, Fruit of the Vine,When you Gonna Let Me Get Sober?” By Tom Paxton

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=RKk0Nf5n1BM&si=OWklP6F8wKWVPW5C

From now on it will not be uncommon to see donativo style tables of local foods – cheese,cakes and donuts – mostly home made. If there is no one in attendance there is usually a jar to make a donation – an honour system.

The path descends to the village of Ferreiros – its pilgrim – friendly history going back to the 12 th century – Ferreiros means blacksmith.

12th century Iglesia de Santa Maria with its baptismal font located outside! The entrance is well worth a look apparently.

100 km to go – sadly we shall encounter this kind of infantile defacement.

Moving on we reach the the tiny oasis of Mercadoiro with its albergue and an interesting general store.

Tienda Peter Pank, named after an edgy, rebellious punk- like Spanish comic book character- cowbell anyone?

Onwards through Vilacha, approaching Portomarin

There is a descent
into the valley of the River Mino and Portomarin will be in sight.

Portomarin holds the distinction of being the newest oldest town along the camino. The town you see today was transplanted from the now flooded valley below. Most of the town is newly built but the church and a few smaller buildings were relocated stone by stone.

Iglesia de San Juan – close inspection shows that the stones were numbered to avoid head scratching later. It is ascribed to the workshops of Master Matteo who carved the Portico de Gloria in Santiago.

Santiago de Compostela Cathedral

We cross a high modern bridge to enter Portomarin ( pop. 1528 )

https://www.galiciatips.com/en/destinations/portomarin/

You may be able to see the outlines of some the original village buildings below the waterline .

The bridge leads to steep stone stairs – a part of the medieval bridge transplanted higher up. It is pleasant place with its elegant stone colonnades and enticing shops and cafes.

Portomarin is our stopover .

Our hotel

“Comfortable accomodation right in the middle of the town’s major street. There are multiple eateries within a few steps away from the entrance of this inn. The owners are very responsive and always ready to answer any questions you might have via WhatsApp. Highly recommended.” RECENT REVIEW

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=ju_a2-Pve4g&si=xVG5UdLdTeN8POUw

“ Wherever I Lay My Hat, That’s My Home – Paul Young.

At what is a halfway point for me, at least, I should re-acknowledge some of my sources:

MOON – CAMINO DE SANTIAGO -Beebe Bahrami
THE CAMINO FRANCES – Wise Pilgrim Guide
Camino de Santiago – Camino Frances – John Brierley
The Road to Santiago- Michael Jacobs
Camino de Santiago – Village to Village – Dintman & Landis
Camino de Santiago- Sergi Ramis

( And the 🛜 which makes us all “thieves of ideas”…& photos )

“Journeys are lived three times: when you plan them, when you live them, and when you remember them… ”
Everything is cycles, time moves on. Too fast when you’re having a better time.
So much to wish for this trip, so much to plan it, so much organization, make lists, check the Internet, research, send messages, agree, make decisions.
And on the other hand, nerves, fear, doubt, distress, excitement, joy, anxiety.
This is all part of the journey, there are things that are resolved day by day, there are decisions that are made in the moment.
The most important thing is to enjoy everything, live intensely, every moment, every moment.

“ Finished the Camino from SJPDP earlier this month. Like others I could talk about the personal experience I had, but I would rather pay tribute to the local Spanish people who were overwhelmingly polite, welcoming and friendly. Add to that the great food, beer, wine, culture, architecture etc etc- they have so much to proud of. Thank you Spain.” On a forum 26/04/24

But Portomarín is undoubtedly famous for its good eau-de-vie, so much so that its gastronomic festival honours this concoction made using alquitaras, the oldest method of distilling eau-de-vie. You can’t leave this charming village without trying a shot. The most traditional ones are blanca, crema de orujo, coffee liqueur, and aguardiente de hierbas, called “liquid ibuprofeno” by many tavernkeepers as they assure that they cure all the aches and pains of the pilgrim. “ An Orujo …Gracias “.

“Liquid Ibuprofeno ” – Love it…but not after breakfast!

Sarria in particular and Galicia in general, plus the debate about an authentic Camino .

You find the flèches in/on all sorts of places!

SARRIA

Sarria was founded by the last king of León, King Alfonso IX, who himself died here in 1230 on his pilgrimage to Santiago. It is the biggest town in Galicia on the Camino Francés (save Santiago de Compostela).

The fact that a Compostela is awarded for walking at least the last 100 kilometers makes Sarria a popular starting place, as it is just over the 100 km mark. In fact, more than one-third of all pilgrims walking the Camino Frances start their pilgrimage in Sarria (compared, for example, to Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port, which is the starting point for only around 8%). Hence the numerous hostels and albergues located here; Sarria holds the record for the most albergues in one town.

EXAMPLES

Pelegrinos starting the Camino in Galicia are required to get two stamps a day in their credentials in order to get a Compostela in Santiago.

According to the Pilgrim’s Reception Office in Santiago in 2023, 131 128 people, or 31% of all pilgrims walked this route.

So far so good ,but the only aspects remaining of historic Sarria are revealed along the final climb up Rua Mayor near the church of San Salvador ,the castle ruins and the raised orchard beyond. Otherwise it is a busy and bustling place.

WHAT TO SEE IN SARRIA

FORTRESS TOWER

Residence of the Merinos and the Major Justice of the Marquisate until the first third of the 18th century.

The Sarria fortress it is an old fortification of medieval origin of which currently only one flank tower remains, popularly known as Battalion Tower.

LA MAGDALENA MONASTERY

Possibly, Sarria’s most important monument, built in the 12th century. Over the years, it served as a wood store, barracks and a prison, until it is given to the Order of Mercy in the 19th century.

CHURCH OF SANTA MARIÑA

The current church has a Gothic appearance with a Latin cross plan, retaining from the previous one only a drawing of the front and a capital.

Rua Mayor

In peak seasons, May,June and September particularly there can be a possibly alarming number of pilgrims in Sarria. This can be disconcerting after the rural idylls walked through before. This is partly responsible for the debate about the 100 km entitlement to a Compostela. There are those who believe the increasing commercialisation of the Camino and the larger numbers making the way can be partly put down to the 100 km stipulation. There is an often expressed view that such numbers and motivations contaminate the spirituality of the Camino.The crowds at these peak times are very much populated with young Spaniards – there is no equivalent to the Duke of Edinburgh award in Spain – a Compostela looks good on your CV.

A proper pilgrim – excellent view from the forum below –
Camino de Santiago All Routes | I’ve been following with interest the discussion on carrying bags or not, and whether that makes someone a ‘proper’ Pilgrim | Facebook.

https://www.facebook.com/groups/544764125895308/posts/2090900824614956/

There have been suggestions to the Santiago church authorities to drop the 100 km or change it to 200 km. These suggestions have been rebutted. The Church knows a good money maker as do the Galician authorities and the Camino provides both hospitality and employment.

Then comes disparagement : These are not “ true” Pelegrinos , they are Turigrinos. I suspect it is a debate that will resound for years to come. I always think that the late John Brierley, guidebook writer and to some a Camino guru or saint even, offered this opinion and I quote it in full .

“ A reminder for “ seasoned “ pilgrims who commenced in St. Jean Pied de Port or further back in Le Puy, Geneva, Budapest? Beware of signs of irritation at the intrusion of new pilgrims on “ my” Camino – remember that many of the new arrivals may be nervous starting out and the last thing they need is aloofness built on a false sense of superiority. None of us can know the inner motivation or outer circumstances of another. A loving pilgrim welcomes all they meet along the path with an open mind and open heart ….without judgement of any kind”

https://santiagoinlove.com/en/true-pilgrim-portrait/ This is an amusing and self deprecating view.

My own memories of Sarria twenty years ago are few, as it had been a long day’s journey. From being picked up in a crowded minibus under the Aston express way en route to Heathrow. A coach journey to Sarria from Santiago airport and a hotel where I was scolded ( I thought at the time ) for helping myself to a tapa in the hotel bar ! Then leaving the hotel at 6 am in darkness with the group of about 24 or more and crossing the Ponte da Espera.

I caught a fleeting glimpse of a Kingfisher here.

I ought to add that the group leader was a young priest, Fr John Nolan who had begun his priesthood at Holy Family Small Heath where I was HT; he became a kind of school chaplain and will always be remembered for delivering sermons at school masses with the aid of a puppet, which delighted the children and drove the staff up the wall in equal measures! Later, after a period as PP at Our Lady’s, Tile Cross, he was then given the job by the archbishop, of running a diocesan youth centre at Alton Castle,Staffordshire. He contacted me with a request to raise funds for the centre to which I agreed,as did three other fellow HTs. Our group then consisted of youth workers from Alton, some of his former parishioners having a range of ages, plus four HT’s who gave up their summer half term – we were all sponsored . I thoroughly enjoyed my first Camino, stayed in a couple of traditional albergues as well as small hotels, I recall John celebrating mass in a park at one point and I read at a mass in Arzua too,in bare feet! The food and wine were especially memorable.

———————————————————————————————

GALICIA

Galicia has a fascinating history and I have taken photocopies from an early travel guide to S de C – “ THE ROAD TO SANTIAGO” by Michael Jacobs – this is more of a scholarly guide than most and his descriptions of its history and character are well worth reading .

.

The seventh largest autonomous region in Spain

JUST TAP ON EACH PAGE TO ENLARGEN IT

NOTE – Dogs are no longer a problem – they have to be chained by law

A Horreos

Great sauntering

Delicious food and wine,too.

AND ON THE SEVENTH DAY – Triacastella to Sarria 18.7 Km – leaving a 115.5 Km to Santiago de Compostela.

GALICIA

And on a practical note, the only thing to leave behind is your footprint.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=21bm9uJYuRo&si=8dkB1Pncqs6Y6ZGB “ Walk of Life”’ Dire Straits.

Aimery Picaud evoking the landscape which we will enjoy walking westwards, conjured up images of a promised land. For him,Galicia was a place….” abundant in woods,delightful for its rivers, meadows and exceptionally rich orchards, its wonderful fruit and clearest of streams…it abounds in rye bread and cider, cattle and horses and all sorts of seafood; it is rich in silver and gold, textiles and furs,and, above all in Saracen treasures”.

A very French and possibly over idealised picture, but Picaud regarded the Galician culture as comparable to his own..” closest to our French race in their customs”

https://www.pilgrim.es/en/plan-your-way/codex-calixtinus/ This is the first and most esteemed guide to the Camino – Picaud is regarded as one of its authors and in the Codex,Triacastela marked the end of stage 11 and signaled the end of the Galician mountains ( though there are still a few smaller ups and downs before reaching S de C ).

The Codex has a colourful history, as does Galicia itself. The link below gives a brief but informative overview of its history.

https://www.hillwalktours.com/walking-hiking-blog/typically-galician-history-of-the-galicia-region/

Leaving Triacastela there are two routes, a longer one via the Samos monastery, the San Xil route we take to the right – the pathways on this section have been much improved, whereas the Samos route does follow the main road in stretches.

Spoilt for choice as both routes are beautiful. The San Xil route is considered the original medieval Camino. Expect lyrical fairyland – like hamlets with little chapels, one after another strung along the lush valleys of ancient chestnut forests.

An interesting diversion hereabouts is the art gallery of English painter Arthur Lowe ( not Dad’s Army ! )

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=hTdikCon128&si=aQa5hBlLxbYgHM9_”Art for Art’s Sake” 10cc

Arthur had walked the Camino several years ago and fell in love with what was then a dilapidated building right on the path about 130km (112 miles) from Santiago de Compostela.  He decided to buy it and set about renovating it and now, 10 years on, it’s both his home and an art gallery.  The garden is still work in progress but the flowers he has planted, which includes 20 to 30 lavender plants, are already attracting numerous butterflies.

Any pilgrims passing by (who will need to turn right to San Xil at the split in the route in Triacastela) are welcome to enter and marvel at the work he’s done as well as his obvious artistic talent.  They may even be lucky enough to get their Camino ‘credentials’, or log book, ‘stamped’ with an Arthur Manton-Lowe original.

After passing through A Balsa, we encounter a small Ermita and over a small bridge, reaching a large pool of water with a huge seashell

Not sure if this is potable,so best carry water / snack until we reach Furela and refreshment opportunities,9.6 km on.

Then follows a climb up to Alto de Riocabo 910 M, walking along a new high level woodland path above Montan and down through Fontearcuda and then into Furela.

At Fontearcuda, this makeshift hip like barn may be open.

If not, we should be ready for coffee and possibly Desayuno 2 by now.

At Casa do Franco,Furela.

We will have walked past many of these Horreos – grain stores and iconic Galician structures.

Just over 1.7 km we reach Pintin and further refreshment if needed.

Another increasingly familiar sight..

Serrano Ham

After two more km we enter AGUIADA, the route that detoured from Triacastela to Samos rejoins the main Camino here. With a population of 40, there is little here but the tiny chapel.

Relief . The chapel flanks a farmer’s field – expect curious cows peering over the fence .

Soon we are passing through San Pedro do Camino and Carballal, still deep in rural country even as Sarria looms 3.8 Km away. Then walking through pine forest we shall become aware of houses and settlements as we near the outskirts of Sarria and the quantity of places to stay and eat increases exponentially compared to our earlier day’s walk. The path then continues through Vigo de Sarria

Welcome Pelegrinos.

Before crossing the River Sarria we reach our accommodation for the night in Vigo de Sarria .

EL RINCONCITO de dpCristal

A recent revue :”Place is new. Beds are nice. Very clean and efficiently run”.

There is a pleasant tree- lined,riverside promenade after crossing the Rio Sarria.

Memories – almost exactly 20 years ago, I began my first Camino from Sarria – in a large group of 24+ – we were walking to raise funds for the Birmingham Archdiocese Youth hostel, Alton Castle and so we were all sponsored in different ways . I knew relatively little about the Camino, as it was not known about anything like the extent it is today. But I can still recall my feelings of anticipation and curiosity as we left Sarria at 6 am, in the dark, literally ! And now, twenty years on and a few more Caminos walked, I still get just as enthralled.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=bzHEiK26mgQ&si=nexRjq-kKTAN3Wkv “ Cherished Memories”, by the late Eddie Cochran

SARRIA is a unique place for a variety of reasons and deserves a short Blog to itself – next time then.

Few places in the Algarve can really be called “Off the Beaten Path,” but Silves still fits the bill.

Artistic impression of the castle

Approaching SILVES from the railway station

Completely
deserted and no signage and not just on Sundays by the look of it.

Fortunately, a fellow tourist assured us we were heading in the right direction. She was an interesting companion as we walked the 1.25 miles down to the city. She was a football fan, 51 years of age and still playing 7-a- side and had been to watch Spain play Holland( womens’ teams ) in Seville earlier in the week. She was from Breda, same town as Liverpool and Holland’s formidable captain,Virgil Van Dijk. That was the third conversation of interest we enjoyed on this short journey from Portimao. First, on the platform at Portimao, with a lady who recognised my scallop shell on the rucksack and we shared Camino experiences. She was Belgian with excellent English, fluent in the vernacular,too. “knackered “ was used quite precisely at least twice! A other Pelegrina chatted to us on the train, briefly and she,too, was an enthusiastic reminiscer.

Looking across the river valley

The Roman Bridge

Complete with a citrus orchard and restaurant

That’s our footballer leading the way up a typical narrow street.

I really like the lanterns

Ditto

And the balconies

Locally made – not from China.

Silves is a historic town that was originally the ancient capital of the Algarve.
During the Moorish era (9-12th century), Silves was a major stronghold and important trading centre. From the solid red-brick castle, the Moors defended the entire region, while from the harbour, boats sailed down the Arade River to trade with North Africa.

Today, Silves is peaceful and unhurried, but remnants of this illustrious past can be seen scattered throughout the town. This includes the imposing Castelo de Silves, heavily fortified gateways and the Gothic Se cathedral.

We soon came to the Cathedral

Silves was named the bishopric seat soon after the first conquest of the city from the Arabs in 1189, but the Cathedral was only built after 1268, after the city’s definitive conquest during the reign of King Afonso III. It retained the title of cathedral until the 16th century, when the diocese’s headquarters were transferred to Faro as the city was blossoming due to the silting of the Arade River and the growing importance of the Algarve coast. During this period, 26 bishops occupied the Episcopal seat. From the offset the church was dedicated to Saint Mary and, later, to Our Lady of the Conception, represented in the chancel with a Gothic image.

Like most of the buildings in Silves, the cathedral is built in red sandstone, ‘Grés de Silves’, which characterises the city with its tonality and predominance.

An intriguing doorway or window

The aforementioned gateway

Nearly there

Flying the flag

The imposing walls of the castle

Walk the ramparts

Being a Sunday there was not many shops or cafes open, but we found this shady spot for coffee.

Silves is mainly known as one of the most beautiful places in the Algarve and people mainly live from tourism (and fishing and cork). When you walk through the city you see many traces of the past. Every street corner tells a different story.

The Portuguese Cross

Quiet today

But expecting a good crowd for lunch

Water features and tile work

They must have capped the chimney to prevent the Storks from nesting!

SILVES doesn’t have the flashy cliffs, caves, or even a beach at all, but it does have loads of charm and history.

And Praia da Rocha…A great week’s break on the Algarve

And the food and wine were good too.

Cliff top walk from Praia de Rocha to ALVOR – in better weather than forecast

Caught this the previous evening on our way to The Croke Park Tavern , it is often said that a rainbow is a good omen and so it proved today.

Couldn’t put it better myself 🤫

After a shop at Lidl, it was back to the apartment to unload and then a walk down to Praia de Rocha. We were hoping that a nearby, highly recommended locals’ restaurant would be open – to reserve a table for Saturday evening – A NAVE. It was open and a very friendly lady assured us of a table.

Sardines for starters please

Reaching the end of the main drag in Praia de Rocha you come to a Miradour with steps leading down to the beach.

The boardwalk only went so far and we thought the tide might be turning so we walked a little further before taking another set of steps up the cliff side .

It proved to be the right decision as there was a purpose made pedestrian walkway, giving good views.

Although cloudy at first, there was no rain and it was not too breezy.

Safety rails were in place near cliff edges.

Steps down to the next beach

Young Fig trees

A great setting for a cliff top bar

The path narrowed in places but was good underfoot

Nearing Praia de Vau

Good effort with the climbers

Plenty of tempting places to eat and drink

Another well kept little cove

The Portuguese have numerous uses for tiles

Walking the balconies

An interesting notice board

Similar walkways to those around Lagos

Wonderful trees

Alternative Pathways

A beauty

The path skirted a holiday village of cube like villas – none seemed to be occupied as yet.

Leaving the village and the cliffs behind as we reach the outskirts of ALVOR and familiar territory- having stayed there two years ago.

Here’s looking at you!

Walkways now parallel the Praia de ALVOR .

It will be a different scene come July

Nearing ALVOR

Yes, we loved the walk

Fabulous climber

Captivating cliffs today – 8.5 miles in all on good terrain – we finished with an afternoon cup of tea by the ALVOR bus terminal – then the number 13 local bus back.

A TRAIN RIDE TO LAGOS FROM PORTIMAO

A two carriage diesel of some vintage

Another revisit on the Algarve, but not as far back as 1976, we spent some time in Lagos two years ago and wanted to explore some more of its history and its walkway over the dunes.

Tiny station but it still employed a ticket office and at €4.00 return , who says nationalised railways don’t work? These do and for the benefit of customers not shareholders.

Atop a chimney behind the platform.

Despite its age,the train picked up some speed as we passed salt pans, allotments and large fields of asparagus.

Cabbages amongst the citrus trees

Salt pans

Lagos station is quite modern and a contrast to Portimao and this little place – sorry about the dirty windows

We were soon crossing the waterway to Lagos Marina , reminding us of the importance of its maritime traditions.

Lagos offers numerous opportunities to take boat rides to caves and so forth.

But not on this one which is reminder of a now infamous time in its history when Lagos was the centre of the European slave trade.

Mainly responsible.

This was the slave market

Coffee time in a little Largo in the pedestrianised quarter . I forewent a Pasta de Nata…don’t know how….oh yes I had one for breakfast !

But the mellow tones of this saxophonist were a compensation

Famously irresistible and frequently found in the UK now. Lidl make some good ones.

Believe it or not,but these are a souvenir cast in crockery.

Lovely cast iron balcony

Examples of classic dwellings to be found in Lagos

The Lagos town walls date back as far as the Roman period. They were rebuilt by the Arabs and considerably enlarged during the 16th century between the reigns of D. Manuel and Filipe I, because of the need to protect the growing city centre.
These walls have nine towers that were built for artillery and there are seven gates.
In the late 16th century, one section of the wall was turned into a residence for the Governors of the Algarve.

We walked around the walls with some attractive flora en route

Early blossom

And a pergola covered in Wisteria

Recent excavations just below the walls

Vehicle access

An ancient gateway

We walked up hill to a great viewpoint.

Looking towards the ocean

One of the fortresses guarding the city

For a complete change of scene it was time to walk back to the station, as the access to the walkways over the dunes was just a few metres from there and we had to time it so that we got back in time for the return train to Portimao

5 Kms over the dunes, alongside both the railway and the sea.

These wooden walkways allow access to the dunes whilst preserving their precious biodiversity

These walkways reminded me of the time I walked the coastal Portuguese Camino ten years or so ago, starting in Porto.

A number of information boards along the way and this one tells of the traditional net fishing that still takes place here.

That might be our train coming in from Faro

More citrus and asparagus plantations on the way back

Sculpture of a lady emptying a basket into a mill in the Largo Dom Joao II,in the pedestrian zone Portimao.

A great day out in the sun 🌞 and 11 miles of walking. If you want or need an antidote to Praia de Rocha this town has it all.

And on the fourth day….Cacabelos to La Portela de Valcarce 21KM – 11.06.24…Looking ahead…

The Camino leaves the town over the River Cua and past the church and the albergue. It continues alongside the N 120 on a gravel path, passing a simple wooden cross and soon enter the hamlet of 36 persons,Pieros which contains the remains of the ancient castro Ventosa.

Castro Ventosa – a prehistoric settlement

And a church, Iglesia de San Martin de Tours,with a triangular facade, built in 1086.

Surrounded by apple trees and vines.

Main Street.

The Camino forges a footpath through the vineyards and rolling hills for the next 6.3 Km , passing through Valtuille de Arriba.

If you ignore the large metal posts and electric wires running overhead you can still appreciate a beautiful landscape.

We then enter the Burbia valley’s wine-growing area.

This section of the route to Villafranca is called el camino de la Virgen and is a deeply spiritual landscape for locals – Mary is seen as a protector of the land,fruit and wine. The locals still hold a deep respect for pilgrims despite the ever increasing numbers passing their doors.

Hermosa Vista

After climbing the last hill and dale we pass an iconic sight, the Iglesia de Santiago and its Puerta de Perdon ( door of pardon ).

Centuries ago pilgrims who could go no further received absolution and a Compostela which is why Villafranca is sometimes referred to as “ Little Santiago”.

Huddled between two fast-flowing rivers and the verdant hills of the Galician mountains, Villafranca de Bierzo is one of the most beautiful towns in Northern Spain.A particular feature are the glass enclosed balconies stone and stucco homes.

It is the last important town in Leon that is crossed by the Pilgrim’s Road to Santiago de Compostela. Its rich monumental heritage, and the influence of the St. James pilgrims, have made it an important tourist centre. Its old town has been declared Property of Cultural Interest.

https://internationalliving.com/countries/spain/villafranca-spain/

Walking through the Plane trees.

Recreation and refreshments aplenty in the Plaza Mayor.

Leaving Villafranca, we follow the arrows and scallop shells over the Burbia river on a more strenuous stretch than of late as we walk up above the Valcarce valley to be rewarded with fine views.

There are 3 options when it comes to to choosing the way from here,but the least demanding is partly alongside the N_VI, the traffic has been greatly reduced by the completion of the A_6 Motorway.

12 th century village of Pereje,population 33. A mixture of abandoned and refurbished houses

There is an inn ,Las Coronas, with a reputation for a warm welcome and tasty snacks.

Just before entering Trabadelo, the Camino passes through ancient Chestnut trees. For centuries locals have gathered the chestnuts which have been called “ the bread of the poor” because they single-handedly saved whole communities from starvation in bad winters.

A tranquil stretch before entering Trabadelo.

Trabadelo, population 103 is a village dependant on the lumber industry and the Camino. A lumber mill takes up the middle of the village but the operation carries on quietly so Trabadelo retains its sleepy chilled-out feel.

The village albergue- pilgrims have passed through here since A D 895.

Leaving Trabadelo the camino is as well marked as ever and in just under 4 km we should reach Hotel Valcarce, our accommodation for this evening.

We need to be careful here when crossing the road as there is oncoming or exiting traffic from the hotel and the nearby A-6.

Here you can get what I call a real Spanish salad !

Another hearty option to be accompanied by

Salud.

The third day’s saunter from Molinaseca to Cacabelos, 23 KM. A preview 10.06.24

 Molinaseca to Cacabelos

A song for today :- WALKING ON SUNSHINE 🌞 https://music.youtube.com/playlist?list=OLAK5uy_nhO9Aa2UVNtiM3K5x0vB6weaJqpaif37I&si=lSRxmL55o_wKnUqU

Molinaseca to Cacabelos

Hiking EasyDistance 23 kmAscent 222 mDescent 324 m 5-6 hrsLow Point 479 mHigh Point 611 mGradient 4˚

Leaving Molinaseca is well marked and straight forward , mainly on sidewalks for the 8 KM stretch into Ponferrada, first is a most ancient village,Campo ,with a beautiful 17 th century church, the Iglesia de San Blas.

All around are patchwork fields, vineyards producing lovely Mercia and Godello reds and whites .

Ponferrada was a centre of Roman mining activity and became a large and prosperous settlement. In 1178 Templars made it a main stop on the Camino to serve and protect pilgrims. In the 13 th century they built the massive castle which is the iconic image of Ponferrada.

Castillo de Los Templarios

Almost Hollywood like ! Chosen because of the intersection of two rivers,the Sil and the Boeza and the views below of the fertile forests and valleys of the Bierzo region.

The Plaza Virgen de la Encina is the social and town centre of medieval Ponferrada ( second break fast anyone?) and home to its most celebrated Church.

It has a founding legend that weaves pagan spirituality with Christian.

“ The legend goes that, during the building of Ponferrada’s fortified castle, a knight went into the forest seeking more wood for the construction, and spotted Mary’s image on an ancient Oak. ( Oak trees were considered and sacred by pre- Christian peoples in Iberia ). Encina means Holm oak, hence Our Lady of the Oak.” B.Bahrami MOON Camino de Santiago guide .

12 Best Things to do in Ponferrada

Click on the link for more information about Ponferrada

Arrows and scallop shells will take us over the Pons Ferrara bridge and west out of the town.In the 12 th century it needed to be reinforced with iron supports – that is how the town got its name. Onwards through residential areas, parks and tree lined streets. Some of the residents have attached symbols of the Camino ,such as brass scallop shells and arrows to their garden walls and gates, shortly arriving at Compostila.

Compostilla is a curious place. It was largely built by a private mining and energy company and its rectilinear streets, complete with football pitches and schools, is reminiscent of something out of an upper class North American neighborhood.

On your way through you will pass Nuestra Señora del Refugio, an indication that Compostilla had a place for pilgrims long ago.

The Santa María de Compostilla church (in honor of Compostela) was built in 1948, in the neo-Romanesque style. 
Surrounded by grass and trees, it offers a haven of peace on the pilgrim’s path to Santiago de Compostela. There are many links here with St James and Mary

We recommence the way along a pleasant country road leading us very shortly into Columbrianos – good views to be had of mountains to the left, vineyards and apple trees – this area is called the “ garden valley of Ponferrada”.

Bar-Albergue San Blas is recommended here.

Ermita de San Blas y San Roque

1998 Mural of St James in an elaborate cape.

The route continues through similar countryside, giant Collards used for Cocido or sautéed with bacon ( an Irish link? ) are found in many of the gardens. Almost immediately we enter Fuentes Nuevas – a sleepy place – and one of the older villages.

In Castillian Spanish or Español, Collards are known by several names. The two heard more often are Acelgas or Berza. 

Along its Calle Real village doors and fences are festooned with statues of St James, scallop shells and original, hanging black kettle pots.

Fuentes Nuevas has a local wine maker that invites Pelegrinos to stop for a wine tasting with pinchos- it’s on the left 3/4 way, down Calle Flores.

Must leave room in my rucksack!

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=eqYNTToDp-I&si=uCXdWHS5m-dhHItQ GIMME THAT WINE by Georgie Fame.

In a short while we shall reach Camponaraya – leaving the rural idyll behind – the name comes from campo meaning countryside and naraya , the river that flows through here. Then through a straggling industrial suburb; the N120 running through it – waymarks impressed in the slabs,various cafes en route.

Not a pretty place but it has origins in the peak of the medieval Camino in the 11-12th centuries and once had a pilgrims’ hospital.

It has more of an industrial feel than of late and we leave along the LE-713.

Vineyards of the Bierzo region which we traverse after crossing the A6 by footbridge – this typifies the route all the way into Cacabelos

Cacabelos is located in the center of El Bierzo. This area is widely known for its white wine.

The first settlement was founded by King Alfonso IX in the 10th century. After a devastating earthquake, the town was rebuilt in the 12th century.

The Camino Santiago enters Cacabelos from the East passing the Hermitage of San Roque and later the church of Santa Maria.

Continuing our way through town we reach the bridge over River Cúa, where you can have a refreshing swim.Near the bridge, you can see the beautifully renovated building of an old mill with the olive press in front.

Another attraction of Cacabelos is the Sanctuary of la Quinta Angustia. Inside the building, the altar shows the baby Jesus playing cards with San Antonio de Padua.

Santuario de las Augustias

Links and more information about this settlement:-

https://www.barcelo.com/guia-turismo/en/spain/leon/things-to-do/que-visitar-en-cacabelos/

Cacabelos Mercardo de Abastos open every morning – local foods,fruit, cheeses,vegetables and sausages.

Our resting place for this evening

un lugar acogedor para relajarse

Rabanal del Camino to Molinaseca.2nd walk,24 KM,Sunday 09/062024.A preview including a “ peak experience “.

Music for this Etape is….https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=9yCsThM4Ibw&si=S2gNe4HKMDLEb2zS Edward Elgar’s “ Triumphal March from Caractacus”.

This should be a memorable stage of our Camino.

And in the thick of Leon’s mountains – a blissful stretch

We should ensure we have plenty of water ( rehydration tablets advised ) as we continue the gradual climb out of Rabanal. Stone walls and a dirt path demarcate the Camino. It will soon enter a passage that is pure wild territory for the next 5.6 KM. Steep in places but generally steady.

A long ascent in which we will climb 280 metres in altitude all at once until we reach the Cruz de Ferro ( 1,400 metres).

After 5.3 KM we reach Foncebadon, a good place for a rest and a coffee before the next 2.3 KM to the Cruz de Ferro.

Entering Foncebadon

Cafe and shop if you need a snack

Foncebadon was pretty well deserted in the early 1990s – emigration to Madrid for work being one factor – but the growing popularity of the Camino has seen a revival and repopulation. It was home to the XIIth century hermit,Gaucelmo who built a church and a simple pilgrim hospital here.

Below is a great story about a local woman,Maria, who defied the clergy and Guardia Civil as they attempted to remove the town’s church bells.

For Whom the Bell Tolls – Maria on guard.

https://wherepeteris.com/postcard-5-foncebadon-resurrection-on-the-margins/

We then rejoin the path upwards to Puerta Irago (1505m ) and the Cruz de Ferro. In his guidebook John Brierley states : – “…this majestic spot stands 1505 M above sea level and a simple iron cross stands atop its weathered pole that has become one of the abiding symbols of the pilgrim way of St James…”

Cruz de Ferro is an ancient,iconic site

Thousands of Pelegrinos have left stones and messages brought from home – or simply tokens of love and blessing – it can be a powerful ritual. Take time to think about what ritual you want to enact: gratitude, letting go,forgiveness…Leaving a stone can represent leaving a burden behind,leaving the pilgrim lighter for the journey ahead . It’s not mandatory!

We shall have to take care on the steep descent towards Acebo,passing the tiny hamlet of Manjarin en route, with its open-air shelter built by Tomas Martinez de Paz – a self styled Templar knight in an effort to provide some basic amenities on this stretch.

Some pilgrims feel drawn to the place for its romantic and seeker’s vibe https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=egma0rGjtoo&si=jTIqCWj5imqoZCF9 “The Seeker “by The Who.

Leaving Manjarin there is another short climb up to the true highest point of Monte Irago’s pass,midway between Manjarin and El Acebo; hoping for a clear day there will be great vistas, a full view of El Acebo below and in the distance the large town of Ponferrada.

Descending towards El Acebo which means “ Holly”.

El Acebo is described as a “ delightful village – raspberry bushes grow over walls,built of stone and populated by friendly villagers. We might notice bundles of herbs tied to doors , balconies and windows – an ancient pre-Christian practice to ward off bad luck but also attracting and keeping well being.

15th century Iglesia de San Miguel “ whose interior holds a statue of John the Baptist, the wild man of the Bible and a perfect personality for the deep wilderness of the Camino along this stretch.” I have always felt a deep affinity with J T B.

If you are feeling peckish then this is a good place to sample “ botillo “ the fat smoked pork sausage that is a specialty of the El Bierzo region.

From El Acebo to Molinaseca is some of the wildest and unspoiled territory on the Camino – sublime and populated by butterflies and dragonflies- the trail goes through narrow crags and trees in a timeless setting.

Next village is Riego de Ambros – another attractive mountain village with traditional overhanging balconies – previously abandoned houses have been renovated – including the bar in the village centre. At this point a decision can be made whether to continue down on the trail ( rocky in places ) or to walk along the road ( local and not busy,but care needs to be taken on bends – most of my research on Pilgrim Forums indicates that the road is a good option,particularly if your knees are susceptible to descents, or it is raining – probably worth packing a “ high viz” vest, just in case ). Bicigrinos could be more of a hazard than cars! It is worth noting that none of the four reference guidebooks I have make much of the descent, except to say take extra care when wet.

Las Puentes

Bread and wine – a tiny miracle

Love the settees!

In the centre of this originally 12 th century village is the small Baroque Ermita de San Sebastián- patron saint of athletes and adventurers ( might we still qualify for the latter? ). A busy man as he was also protector against plague and calamity – we could do with people of that ilk today !

Just on the left of the Camino .

We continue our path downward to Molinaseca , through a beautiful grove of Chestnut trees – good for bird life apparently- the village disappears from view occasionally in the valley ahead. This will begin to feel more like valley country as the mountains we have descended are behind us and we face a vast fertile valley ahead, with as much Mediterranean as Atlantic flora.

Molinaseca is “A Beauty Spot on the Camino”

Molinaseca translates a “ dry mill” but it is a beautiful well irrigated town built along the River Meruelo. Apples,pears,chestnuts red peppers, the aforementioned botillos and wine are of distinctive regional quality here. If you like fresh water fish then Trout are abundant too.

“Oh I loved that descent! The mountains were purple and lovely!” Recent quote from a Pelegrino.

Molinaseca’s most distinguishing feature – the Puente de Peregrinos which we traverse as we enter the town . Large cobbled stones beneath your feet as you are led into the Casco Antigo ( old town ).

Relax, look back at the mountains and order a….”para mi un Tinto Verano…Gracias.”

In warm weather there is a swimming area set off along the river .”
I swam in that cold water- left my pack and shoes on the grass- went in wearing my sports bra and shorts- one of my best memories of the Camino!” NB Quote from a Pelegrina,not me!”

The link below is a good guide to the history of Molinaseca and what to see.

https://www.barcelo.com/guia-turismo/en/spain/leon/things-to-do/molinaseca/

Our digs for this evening – Hostal El Horno

Area del descanso . “Really enjoyed my stay at Hostal El Horno. The Hosts were very kind and very helpful. I recommend that you have the dinner and breakfasts. The dinner was an amazing Brazilian dish. Great people. Thank you for your hospitality.” A recent review.

CAMIGOS ON THE CAMINO FRANCES. Part III.A Preview of the Final Stages planned for June 2024,despite Ryanair! And “ Gold in Them Hills” – Ron Sexsmith.

BEGINNING WITH ASTORGA AND A FREE DAY

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=EdBIZNXLFDw&si=v9qfOcfxa2OuPYh7

There have been a number of Pelegrinos on our Camino Frances,which began in 2022. June,Anita,Mary,Sue and Ranjit walked one or two of the previous stages but are no longer walking the Way. Hopefully,they have happy memories and can be proud of what they achieved.

However, we have new recruits! Joining us are Val,Myra, Richard and Ray from Solihull Ramblers,together with Christina of Sutton Coldfield Ramblers. This makes a group of nine including Tom,Rob, Mike and myself. There are going to be some memorable stretches on this final saunter !

My thoughts for all of us on the walk are better expressed by R D Laing:

“There is nothing in the world more enjoyable than to be in communion with another human being. This has nothing to do with technique. Once it is there it is a field – a sort of force field that is not to be discovered within the investigative competence of science. So I will have to call it spiritual. It is the tuning into a spiritual field that is always there. It has to do with attunement – two instruments getting in tune with each other – harmonising. It is quite an experience. In Christian terminology the name they have given to this healing force is the Holy Ghost. Holy means healthy and spirit means ghost. There is a healthy spirit that exists in us and between us and that is the only healing power that exists as far as I know. It exists not just between us as a single species – but throughout the whole of creation”.

From a speech he gave entitled, ‘Beyond science’- to a spiritual healing power” which caused much controversy at the time.

Also, to bear in mind a more earthy piece of advice – “To Walk Ten Days With Someone is Like Living Together for Ten Years!” Let’s hope it doesn’t age us that much.

PRACTICAL DETAILS

We fly to Madrid on our rearranged flight ( by Ryanair) from Birmingham on 05/06/2024, flight 2083,departing at 14.15 and arrive in Madrid at 17.45 ( note the hour time difference). We shall stay at Fly Rooms Hotel near Barajas .

Hopefully we can eat at the same restaurant we used on our departure last year – Barajas is a pleasant enough town considering its proximity to the airport. The next morning we leave for Astorga – our starting point from the Camino – transport TBA soon. 6-8th June, we have two nights at Imprenta Musical Alojamiento in Astorga.

A VIEW OF ASTORGA

Pliny called Astorga an urbs magnifica. It has Asturian and Roman origins. In time the city became an important intersection of two Caminos – The Via de la Plata and the Camino Frances – it is also a popular starting point for the Camino for Spanish pilgrims. The city is actually built over its early Asturian and Roman origins . Much of the Roman Wall is still intact. Astorga also marks the beginning of the territory known as the Maragateria,home of a people called Maragatos.

The Maragateria is defined by a unique culture of strong mountain people, including arrieros ( traditional muleteers ) who transported goods over the mountains before there were railways and trucks. They were also key to Astoria’s rebirth as a centre for chocolate making – the city has a Museo de Chocolate- 5 minute walk outside the city walls.

It is also famous for its hearty fare which would make a great dinner.

A Stick to Your Bones Cocido – interestingly the the meats and vegetables come before the soup.

You can work up an appetite for that by taking a tour of the city. Here is a useful link to guide you on the way round.

https://londontraveller.org/2019/11/09/walk-around-astorga-roman-town/

The Turismo,adj.Hotel GAUDI has maps available too.

Don’t miss the GAUDI Palace and the Cathedral- take your pilgrim passport with you for impressive stamps.

I shall order these later in the year.

Along the top of Astorga’s western ramparts runs a popular promenade looking out towards an imposing range of mountains- the Montes de Leon.

Our first day’s walking begins on the 8th June when we set out for Rabanal del Camino – the beginning of a slow but steady gradual climb.

BIBLIO: I found a great deal of interest and information from the following books :-

MOON “ CAMINO de SANTIAGO….By Beebe Bahrami

Camino de Santiago – Camino Frances ….By John Brierley

THE CAMINO FRANCES – A Wise Pilgrim Guide

THE ROAD TO SANTIAGO….Michael Jacobs

CAMINO DE SANTIAGO – Village to Village Guide….Anna Dintaman and David Landis.

And of course The Internet! Especially useful for photos.

Unless stated,I shall be using the above for all further “ Previews”.

https://music.youtube.com/watch?v=EdBIZNXLFDw&si=_M32IgyAWsFeg-Cd

“ There’s Gold in Them Hills” by Ron Sexsmith.